Dye DFF-20 Lazarus Valve
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I swapped my HPR to a one set to about 180. Seemed to fix my issue. Not sure whether it’s an issue with the one reg or the how it was set.
Now shooting 255-284 with a 685 stock Sniper barrel. It’s no longer venting my entire tank either! -
Maybe try the 675 barrel back and see how it goes? I get great consistency and velocity with an under-bore.
Side note, I really like the empire barrel kit that comes with these snipers. Honestly, I like everything about the sniper except the macro lines. But since I doubled up the o-rings, it's leak free
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Mine is in the mail, and I was wondering what the lowest possible pressure anyone has got out of it, I would ideally like to make a marker without an LPR, if I have to I have a Clippard LPR but, it would be much cleaner to not have it at all.Comment
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The goal is to get a solenoid that vents at 120ish to work since it could fit in the grip frame I have without much issue. The clippard LPR is rated to 300psi input pressure iirc so worst comes to worst I can throw it on the front of the marker and run a hose into the grip frame but that will be ugly lol.
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It would be nice to integrate an LPR into the block, maybe even the 3-way, not like the trilogy, maybe into the grip frame and blazer mount the ram. Then again, if the force to open the valve is low enough, you hold ditch the hammer... Wait a minute, am I design a spool valve gun at this point?Comment
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I talked to Mark Davis about it. He said in cockers the benefit is not huge, but it is in pumps. Much lower pump force due to light Hammer spring and more efficient with lower pressures so you can play the big scenario games with minimal fills.
He said he was following Angry paintball tests of the valve though, and that his opinion might change.
Beyond that, I know little, other than it is working much better than my stock sniper valve to get the results I'm looking for.Comment
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Myrkul I might end up making it into a spiny but the current goal is more of a spycal that is a ram in the top and bottom tube like an Excalibur, if it proves to be difficult then my plan B/C is to go spimmy or see if I can make a spring forward air return ram work as a mechanical spimmy. I have lots of rams and lots of Spyder bodies laying around to mess about with
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Same thing as LP has always done for cockers, lowers the force needed to open the valve so you need a lighter hammer spring which reduces the LPR which also reduces the pressure on the bolt so it's even gentler on paint and reduces the chances of chopping. That's really always been the big goal, getting as low pressure as possible. It's one reason tuned cockers are usually very quiet.Comment
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Total heathen thought here, don't cocker valves work in Spyder pumps?Comment
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Euphie Other than a self-contained spring housing why would you want to use this valve on a blowback?
edit: if you are making pathways for the blowback that are larger than the stock balancing hole (path of least resistance) the air will escape out to the hammer defeating the purpose for this valves design - it will no longer be a balanced valve. I would suggest modifying a Spyder VS valve to have a self contained spring housing - the VS valve balancing is designed for the blowback use case.
Last edited by latches109; 11-29-2023, 06:48 PM.Comment
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Spump! Or Spocker. Or masochism.Feedback
www.PhrameworkDesigns.com < Nelspot, Sterling, and Phantom parts, plus the occasional big project.Comment
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Because I am putting a pneumatic ram in there, that is why I was trying to figure out if I could get it going at a low enough pressure to avoid an LPR in an earlier post because as it stands now I am gonna have a very ugly LPR drilled and tapped into the volumizer and a hose ran back to the ram.
Euphie Other than a self-contained spring housing why would you want to use this valve on a blowback?
edit: if you are making pathways for the blowback that are larger than the stock balancing hole (path of least resistance) the air will escape out to the hammer defeating the purpose for this valves design - it will no longer be a balanced valve. I would suggest modifying a Spyder VS valve to have a self contained spring housing - the VS valve balancing is designed for the blowback use case.
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Why don’t you just use an intimidator vertical adapter? The LPR screws in the front like a volumizer and the block has the port for the ram air line. -
For reference https://www.ebay.com/itm/255733473949 -
pghp8ntballer Mostly, because I don't have one, but I did consider it. It is actually kinda expensive to buy them with an LPR, I don't know what happened to all of the Intimidator LPRs, I used to be able to find NiB Evil ones for $10. Same thing with Intimidator rams, all of the ram sleeves seemed kinda expensive. Intimidator front blocks and rams themselves seem very plentiful but ram sleeves and LPRs not as much. Right now I am using an Autococker ram, screwed into a block, that is then screwed into a brass tube and that tube is secured to the body, which seems a robust solution if nothing else. What I do have is an intimidator grip frame with single trigger and single trigger guard, so I will probably use that. Also I didn't know it at the time, but the intimidator parts would probably have to be modified too, because the Lazarus valve is really long.
Since my DIY brass ram sleeve sticks out the back a bit, I might go full retro and just make a brass plug for the front and tap it for 1/8" NPT on the front and the bottom, and run a minicocker ASA (which I think I have around here somewhere) and put the brass Clippard LPR on there and find a brass barrel and polish it all up lol, because that will be alot of brass
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