Dye DFF-20 Lazarus Valve

[Jordan]

After trying a lot of different springs and a couple different hammers, I've ended up at around 270-280psi with the IVG in two turns. I'm thinking the fact that it's a Minicocker-spec Trilogy body might have something to do with the higher operating pressure?

It's pretty consistent at the moment, around 270fps, but I'll finish tweaking at the field the next time I'm there... my little Radarchron is good enough to ballpark stuff but I find the red chronies are better at reading consistently.

I also swapped out the u-cup seal for a 009-70 buna, seems to have resolved my intermittent barrel leak. (Or it's a coincidence.)

[Jordan]

latches109 - I started that way - lightest spring in the ID set, reg set to 200psi - but ended up where I'm at now. Tried different regs just in case(Hyper2, Stab, CP), nothing. The hammer is flat faced (I don't have a stock hammer and it's a midblock anyways).

I'm ok with it as it sits, for now.

[SR_matt]

Psycho91 my friend has one he needs to get an 88ci for, as the original is obviously dead, and needs some of the mounting rails to move it between all of his markers lol.

[MrBarraclough]

Whenever I come back to this thread and see this image, for a split second my brain registers it as the most badass looking Blazer I've ever seen.

[Otnasir]

Lol, two different guns with gages and two different reg testers, yeah it's 150

[latches109]

That’s impressive, you should post a how to video. I’d also like to see a hopper over a chrono.

[docfire]

[RAZRBAKK]

😂

[Myrkul]

*I personally wouldn't bother, I feel like 280 psi is really good for a mini-cocker. BUT if you want to get the most out of the Laz valve...you could look at LPC's too, but with the vert gas through you probably have plenty of volume already, it's just the front block & Banjo choking it off.

[Jordan]

Myrkul - I'll see how it performs on the field before I start any permanent modifications to parts... I'm only running a Laz valve because I don't have to run a front spring. I'm not searching for the lowest OP possible.

[docfire]

I had a ID front block with a non ID banjo restrict flow to the tune of 20FPS. And withe that large volume chamber front grip if restricted it will make that usless.

[Jordan]

I had a ID front block with a non ID banjo restrict flow to the tune of 20FPS. And withe that large volume chamber front grip if restricted it will make that usless.

I'm not doubting you when I ask why, just can't wrap my head around it. Why do you think that is? (The banjo part.)

[tyronejk]

If that front grip is a large, empty chamber, having a restrictive banjo bolt would effectively split your firing chamber into two sections. Since the time available to dump all that air out the valve is so short, the effects of any restriction would be magnified.

[William the Third]

I'm in the process of installing one of these in a Meteor pump. I've got some of the ATTKTX set screws on order. I'd like to get one of the Jenni Kraig hammers from Angry, since the Meteor one doesn't have a flat face, but I can find out how to buy one. His website isn't setup, his eBay shop doesn't have them listed, and I'm not a Facebook user, so I can't contact him that way.

[RAZRBAKK]

William the Third how much is he asking for the set? I'm in the market, myself.

[William the Third]

Going by memory, so might be off, but as I recall $36 for standard, $41 for slotted for mid/half block.

[Jivesauce]

Glad he got back to you!

[MrBarraclough]

I posted this to r/paintball a couple of weeks ago and realize I should also copy it here:

Recently installed the Lazarus valve and got to try it out this weekend. As hoped, it resolved my issues getting usable velocity out of my Trilogy. Previously, after switching to the Inception IVG it struggled to get above 240, as that IVG is longer and bottoms out on the body threads in fewer turns than the stock IVG. Even with the stiffest main spring (from Inception's kit) and the stock bolt it was difficult to consistently break 270. I was using an Empire Sniper valve with a cut down lightweight Spyder main spring as the valve spring.

Installed the Lazarus, set the stock HPR to about 200 psi, swapped in the lightest Inception main spring, switched to the venturi bolt, and suddenly it was getting into the 280s-290s with the IVG not even a full turn in from flush. Pretty impressive. Now I just have to figure out why my sear isn't always catching and holding the lug.

As to the hammer not always staying cocked, my guess is that I probably need to screw the lug further in/down. I had been setting it high enough that I could release the sear even with the safety engaged on my Prostock hinge frame, then screwing it in by quarter turns until I couldn't do that anymore. I probably should go in another turn or two and move the sear release a little further back in the trigger pull. At least that's my assumption. Very much open to correction on that if I am mistaken.

[latches109]

If it’s the stock 1.5 frame check the sear spring. I have had one that was cut too far and many that were very dirty.

[MrBarraclough]

Thanks, but it's a two finger hinge that looks like it came off a Prostock.

[SR_matt]

I posted this to r/paintball a couple of weeks ago and realize I should also copy it here:



As to the hammer not always staying cocked, my guess is that I probably need to screw the lug further in/down. I had been setting it high enough that I could release the sear even with the safety engaged on my Prostock hinge frame, then screwing it in by quarter turns until I couldn't do that anymore. I probably should go in another turn or two and move the sear release a little further back in the trigger pull. At least that's my assumption. Very much open to correction on that if I am mistaken.

Probably a fair assumption on the hammer. I assume you’ve checked the sear to make sure it’s not rounded off. Also if the lug is a rounded one going with the flat cone style may help if you’re ok with the change in pull feeling.

[SR_matt]

That is the claim. I have never tried them side by side but the interface should make it be more of a “glass rod breaking” feeling than a rounded hammer. I know I’ve read on the gun fighter frame you have to use a cone lug or else the rounded one can skip.

[superman]

You have to use the cone lug with the shocktech gunfighter frame because it also uses it for the sear. So the 2 surfaces hit at the same angle. Personally I’m not a fan of the cone lug.

[SR_matt]

is it just the feel that you don't like in the trigger or is there some other issue you run into?

[latches109]

For those having trouble with leaking down the barrel after you have changed the 009 oring - Use a wrench and Allen key to tighten the cap very snugly - this has solved the lingering leaking for me.

[Ssimplechoke]

I have a lazarus in my trilogy. My set up is a lazarus valve/stock flat face hammer/ light main spring/ ivg 2 turns in. I pull the trigger the hammer does not activate the valve. Help needed.

[superman]

Sounds like your lug is not properly adjusted.

[latches109]

Start IVG flush, and reg pressure at 180PSI. Set your lug 1/4 turn past when it first catches the sear. Leave the IVG alone with a 2" spring, adjust with your reg, you should not go past 250PSI - if you can not get to velocity, go back to 180PSI and swap for a slightly stronger spring.

[Jordan]

I have a lazarus in my trilogy. My set up is a lazarus valve/stock flat face hammer/ light main spring/ ivg 2 turns in. I pull the trigger the hammer does not activate the valve. Help needed.

What's your reg set at?

[docfire]

New from Angry PB

[docfire]

I call it FAFO. if your don't FAFO you don't learn.

[latches109]

I science all the time. The air will quickly decelerate there, I will be curious to see what happens if he matches the body and bolt all the way through.

[SR_matt]

Based on his video it seems that you can gain either lower operating pressure OR a lighter main spring which will reduce the trigger weight before the sear releases the lug. He used a .031" spring (I believe the normal springs he runs for the JC/stock Laz is .038) and it was working at normal operating pressures. when he went up to the .035" spring he was able to drop operating from 200 to 170 (I think that was the change). I am not sure if he was running the test with a modified bolt but he did post a teaser pic of a milled out bolt (I believe a ST) where the little diffuser in the front was removed and the port was opened up.

So basically it seems that we are hitting the 80/20 rule. 80% of the improvements have been hit with 20% of the work (just trowing in a lab and JC), now we are at 80% of the work to get the last 20% out (major modifications to body/valve).

He is going to be doing some pull tests with an actual pull weight tester to show really what the difference ends up being. It will be interesting to see what the actual results are, and I hope he also shows the pull differences between other mods (such as a traditional slider, ST gunfighter with and without ATTKTX plate, with and with out his HOG tuning, and stock vs polished lugs).

Maybe the mod will be worth it or maybe it will really just be a tiny improvement that a few people really desire... if it gives a measurable improvement and is ready in the next couple of months I may consider doing it for my new build as its already taking forever so a little more time may not be a big deal.